Alabama pitmaster Big Bob Gibson gets credit for creating this mayonnaise-based sauce at his barbeque restaurant in Decatur in 1925. The origin story’s a little murky, but those close to Gibson say he used the sauce to keep the whole chickens from getting too dry during the 3 hours they spent on Bob’s pit. Mop sauces for basting barbecue are usually just vinegar or water with salt and other flavors. The sugars in tomato-based sauces tend to burn, and any fat in the mop drips onto the coals and flares up, dusting the meat with soot. But the fatty mayo clings, and as it cooks it creates a tangy, caramelized crust that holds the juices in.

The basic sauce is just mayonnaise, vinegar, lemon juice, and black pepper. But it’s evolved over the years with more added flavors. Our version, inspired by Nashville chef and author Edward Lee, includes garlic, mustard, worcestershire sauce, smoked paprika, and horseradish. The recipe makes enough to cook at least a half dozen pieces of chicken, but it’s just as good on grilled vegetables, and you’ll want extra for the table. It makes a great salad dressing, too, so double it and keep some in the refrigerator.