The Italians embraced tomatoes after they were introduced from the New World, and they were quick to develop tomato paste so they’d have that sunny flavor all year. Double concentrate tomato paste is more intense than anything in a can, and it takes more than a quarter-pound of tomatoes to make an ounce. It’s meant to be used sparingly and to get the best flavor, cook it in olive oil until it caramelizes and turns brick red, then add some liquid to deglaze the pan.