Retsina, the national wine of Greece, is often thought of as turpentine-flavored plonk, cheap hooch to mix with soda for a quick buzz. Sadly, this is often the case, but a handful of pioneers are working to rehabilitate retsina’s bad name, and show the world that when made with care it can be a beautiful thing. Garalis is a young winery on the volcanic island Lemnos doing just that. Working with organic Muscat of Alexandria, an ancient grape that was widely planted on the island after arriving 100 years ago with Egyptian immigrants, Garalis produces a nuanced retsina, redolent of fresh pine sap. Herbaceous and refreshing, we drink retsina like we drink vermouth: most often over ice with a splash of soda, and either a lemon twist or green olive for garnish.