Anthony and Carol Boutard’s Ayers Creek Farm near Gaston, Oregon produces food that chefs fight to get. They carefully select seed from the best plants in their crops to ensure constant improvement. They harvest what Anthony calls “an old race of soft red winter wheat” before the wheat berries fully ripen. Then the cut wheat is spread out and charred, an ancient harvest practice from the Middle East that produces a smoky wheat berry sometimes called frikeh. Use it in composed salads, serve it with spicy mushroom ragu, or just make a frikeh’n grain bowl.